Degu

Is a degu right for you?

The degu is a rodent from central Chile weighing roughly 170-280 g, with a tufted tail. Unlike hamsters and chinchillas it is active by day, very vocal and social, communicating constantly with chirps and squeaks. Two facts come before everything else: a degu must not live alone, and it is extremely sensitive to sugar; diabetes is common in degus fed the wrong diet.

The most critical point: a degu's diet must contain no fruit, dried fruit, honey, feeds with molasses or sugary treats. Diabetes is one of the most common and most preventable problems in this species.

Before you adopt

Plan for at least two degus. Same-sex littermates settle together most easily; a neutered male with females also works. Do not take home an unneutered male and female together.

In a healthy degu, check:

• Eyes: bright and clear. Cloudy eyes (cataracts) can be a sign of diabetes.
• Teeth: should be yellow-orange. White teeth can indicate a health problem.
• Tail: complete and clean; a missing, bare tail tip shows an old injury.
• Coat and rear end: glossy fur, clean rear, no wetness around the nose or mouth.

Degus count as exotic pets. Find out in advance whether a vet near you treats degus; the RSPCA also recommends an exotics-experienced vet.

Social needs

In the wild degus form small groups that share burrows and raise young together. A lone degu can develop stress, fur plucking and repetitive behaviours. Adopting a group is easiest; adding a new animal later is possible, but introductions must be slow, supervised and on neutral ground.

Cage and living space

Degus run, climb, dig and chew everything. Plastic and wooden cages are quickly destroyed.

• Size: PetMD gives a minimum of about 70x45x70 cm (28x18x28 in) for two degus, while the PDSA says "as large as possible". Treat that figure as the floor, and choose a bigger, multi-level metal cage.
• Bar spacing: no more than about 1.2 cm (½ in), or they may escape.
• Floor: solid, non-slip flooring with deep paper-based bedding. Wire floors cause foot sores.
• Wheel: large with a solid surface; wire or rung wheels injure tails and legs.
• Nest boxes: enough hiding places for every animal.
• Sand bath: a few times a week, a container of chinchilla dust or fine bathing sand.
• Position: out of direct sun, well ventilated and quiet. The RSPCA lists heatstroke among degu health risks; do not let the room overheat in summer.

At least 30 minutes a day of exercise outside the cage in a safe area is recommended. Remove cables and anything chewable.

Feeding: the sugar ban

Degus are herbivores that eat fibrous, low-carbohydrate plants in the wild. Laboratory research shows that diets rich in simple sugars cause metabolic problems in this species.

• Hay (unlimited, most of the diet): timothy or meadow grass hay available at all times.
• Degu pellets (about 10 g a day, 1-2 tablespoons): a feed made for degus. If unavailable, molasses-free guinea pig or chinchilla pellets can be used. Chinchilla mixes with fruit, and rabbit, hamster or gerbil feeds are not suitable.
• Leafy greens (small amounts): leaf lettuce, bell pepper, dandelion leaves. Sources differ on how often to feed them; give small, regular portions and introduce new foods slowly.
• Carrot, sweet potato, beetroot: high in sugar; only a very small piece, rarely.
• Water: a drip bottle or heavy bowl, fresh every day.

Never give: fresh or dried fruit (including raisins), corn, honey, feeds with molasses, biscuits, bread, sweets, nuts and oily seeds, or human food.

Health and lifespan

Average lifespan is 6-8 years; some reach 9.

Signs to see a vet: not eating, weight loss, nasal discharge, wetness around the mouth, cloudy eyes, drinking a lot, changes in droppings or urine, lethargy.

• Diabetes: degus are genetically predisposed; sugary, high-carbohydrate diets trigger it. Signs: excessive drinking and urination, weight change. Diagnosis and monitoring are a job for the vet; prevention is diet.
• Cataracts: clouding of the lens, often linked to diabetes, which can progress to blindness. See a vet if the eyes turn white.
• Dental disease: common in pet degus, especially older ones. Teeth grow throughout life; dropping food, drooling and weight loss are signs. Prevention is plenty of hay and chew materials. Check the teeth weekly.
• Tail slip: if a degu is held by the tail, the skin can strip off or the tail can break away; this is an escape defence. The lost part does not regrow and the open wound can become infected; have a vet look at it.
• Respiratory infections: sneezing, wheezing, nasal discharge. Dusty bedding and draughts increase the risk.
• Fur plucking: a sign of stress, boredom or loneliness.

Do not: use medicines meant for other animals; the RSPCA warns they can be dangerous to degus.

Handling and communication

Degus are curious and intelligent but they are prey animals and often dislike being lifted.

1. In the first days just watch and talk calmly beside the cage.
2. Hand-feed rewards: a small piece of dried herb or a pellet on your palm. No fruit or sugary treats.
3. Let it climb onto your hand. Stay low and do not rush.
4. If you must lift it, support it under the chest and hind legs. Never hold or pull it by the tail.
5. Free-roam time should be in an enclosed area with no cables and no escape routes.

Sounds: degus use a wide range of calls, including chirps, warbles and squeaks, to communicate.

Enrichment

1. Digging box: a box filled with deep paper bedding.
2. Sand bath: a natural behaviour that keeps the coat clean.
3. Branches and levels: untreated branches, metal or ceramic platforms for climbing.
4. Chew items: cardboard tubes, untreated wood, willow.
5. Foraging: hide pellets in the hay.
6. A companion: no toy replaces another degu.

History and life in the wild

The degu (Octodon degus) is endemic to central Chile, living in scrubland from sea level to about 3,500 m. Groups, usually one male with a few females, dig shared burrows, raise young communally and are active by day and at dusk. Their activity times can shift with season and temperature.

Degus first spread around the world as laboratory animals. Their tendency to develop diabetes spontaneously, their daytime activity and their long lifespan made them useful in research on metabolism and ageing. In laboratory conditions they are reported to live 5-7 years. Their popularity as pets is more recent, which is why correct care information can still get mixed up with common pet-shop myths.